Built by a detailer, for detailers. Whether you tuck away a concours queen or a driver with “personality,” this guide gives you a clear, no-nonsense system to put your car down for a nap—and wake it up without drama, dust swirls, or mystery leaks.

TL;DR (print this)

Before storage: Fresh oil, full tank + stabilizer, tires at +3–5 PSI, wash/clay/seal, interior vacuum + desiccant, battery tender on, breathable cover.
During storage: Monthly walk-around, rotate tires a quarter turn, crack doors for gasket health, verify tender is charging.
Wake-up: Visual leak check, battery test, gentle first start (no rev-bombs), warm to temp, brake check in driveway, then first wash with safe technique and inspect everything rubber.

Why a System Matters

• Value: Proper sleep prevents flat-spotted tires, surface etching, and dried seals—aka expensive “oops.”

• Time: A checklist beats winging it when spring fever hits.

• Finish: Your first wash can either be a victory lap or the day you install 200 inches of micro-marring. Let’s choose victory.

Part 1: Pre-Storage (Final Weekend)

1) Fluids & Fuel (45 min)

• Oil & filter: Change now. Old oil carries acids; don’t let them sit all winter.

• Coolant/brake fluid: Confirm correct mix/levels; note flush date.

• Fuel: Fill tank + add stabilizer; idle 5–10 min to cycle it through.

• Notes card: Tape a small card on the windshield with: oil date, mileage, psi, stabilizer added, battery tender brand/setting.

2) Wheels, Tires, Brakes (20–30 min)

• PSI: Inflate +3–5 PSI above normal (label it on the notes card).

• Flat-spot prevention: Ideal: car on quality tire cradles. OK: rotate tires a quarter turn monthly.

• Brakes: Light clean on rotors/calipers; make sure pads aren’t clamping a rusty rotor. Parking brake off if safe—use chocks.

3) The Last Detail (1.5–2 hrs)

• Wash: Pre-rinse, foam, two-bucket, dedicated wheel tools.

• Decon: Clay or clay mitt only if needed; follow with a mild polish if you mar.

• Protection: Sealant or ceramic topper—something slick that won’t dust-grab.

• Glass: Streak-free inside/out; apply a light hydrophobic on exterior.

• Rubber/Vinyl: Feed gaskets/trim with a non-greasy, UV-safe dressing.

4) Interior Reset (30–45 min)

• Vacuum lines (because lines = love).

• Leather: Clean to matte; condition per OEM guidance.

• Odor control: Place desiccant packs (center console, trunk). Skip perfumed bombs.

• Rodent prevention: Steel wool in garage gaps; peppermint oil on cotton balls outside the car (never on surfaces).

5) Battery & Electronics (10–15 min)

• Battery tender: Smart maintainer on correct setting; verify connection.

• Parasitics: If your car is a vampire, consider a quick-disconnect or maintain power if it hates losing settings.

• OBD note: If emissions testing soon, know that pulling the battery can reset monitors.

6) Storage Setup (10–20 min)

• Floor: Clean, dry, and ideally with a vapor barrier mat.

• Cover: Only breathable. Never trap moisture with plastic.

• Vent: Crack windows ¼ inch (use window socks or covers to keep dust out).

• Security: Chock wheels, parking brake off (if safe), note alarm quirks.

Part 2: During Storage (Monthly)

• Visuals: Look under the car for drips. Quick flashlight sweep in wheel wells and engine bay.

• Rotate tires: Quarter turn. If on cradles, skip.

• Tender check: LED status is actually charging, not fault.

• Interior: Swap or dry out desiccant.

• Start it? Hot take: usually no. Short, cold starts create condensation. If you can’t fully warm and drive 20–30 minutes, don’t start it.

Part 3: Wake-Up Sequence (72 Hours to First Drive)

T-72 to T-24 Hours: Inspection & Prep

1. Leak check: Pan, diff, lines, shocks.

2. Belts/hoses: Squeeze test—no cracks, no mush.

3. Battery: Measure voltage; >12.4V after sitting is happy.

4. Fluids: Oil, coolant, brake, power steering, washer. Top up properly.

5. Tires: Set back to normal PSI (see your notes card).

6. Cabin: Pull desiccants, quick vacuum, pedals move freely.

First Start (T-24 to T-0)

• Prime oil (optional): Crank without spark/fuel if your platform allows.

• Start: Eyes on oil pressure. Let it idle; do not rev.

• Warm-up: Wait until coolant and oil temp stabilize. Check for new leaks, belt squeal, misfires.

• Brakes: Light pedal pumps; confirm a firm feel before moving.

• Gears: Cycle through (auto) or clutch engagement test (manual). Listen for oddities.

The First Wash (Post-Wake Hygiene)

Pre-Rinse & Dust Strategy

• Contactless first: Blow off with filtered air/leaf blower.

• Pre-foam: Let chemistry do the lifting; don’t chase dust with a towel.

• Rinse: Top to bottom, tight fan on edges/emblems.

Wash Process (Safe & Slick)

• Soap: pH-neutral, high lubrication.

• Mitt: Plush, clean, low pressure; flip often.

• Wheels last: Dedicated bucket/brushes.

• Drying: Flood rinse + forced air + plush drying towel. Top with a silica spray/ceramic topper for slickness.

Post-Wash Inspection (10 min)

• Rubber: Gaskets, wipers, tires—dress appropriately.

• Engine bay: Wipe plastics; check for weeps after heat cycle.

• Lights: Condensation? Verify seals.

• Glass: Final pass with proper towels (no paper towels… ever).

The First 50 Miles: What to Watch

• Tires: Feel for flat-spot thrum—often fades after 10–20 miles.

• Brakes: Light surface rust clears with gentle stops; avoid hard braking early.

• Temps: Keep an eye on coolant/oil; look for steam, smells, smoke.

• After drive: Park on clean cardboard overnight. Any drips? Track them.

Common Mistakes (Don’t Be That Guy)

• Storing a dirty car (“I’ll wash it in spring”—famous last words).

• Plastic cover = moisture trap = mold party.

• Parking brake clamped for months (hello, stuck pads).

• Short monthly starts without a full heat cycle (water in oil).

• Dry starting and redlining to “wake it up.” Please don’t.

Printable Checklist (copy/paste friendly)

Pre-Storage

• Oil & filter changed

• Full tank + stabilizer run through

• Tires +3–5 PSI / cradles placed

• Wash → clay (if needed) → protect

• Interior vacuumed; leather to matte

• Desiccant packs set

• Battery tender connected

• Breathable cover on; windows cracked

• Notes card filled (fluids/PSI/date)

Monthly

• Leak flashlight sweep

• Rotate tires ¼ turn

• Tender status OK

• Swap desiccants

Wake-Up

• Visual leak & hose check

• Battery voltage >12.4V

• Set tire PSI to spec

• First start, warm to temp (no revs)

• Brake feel firm

• First wash (safe method)

• Post-wash rubber/glass inspect

Pro Tips by Climate

• Humid climates: Extra desiccant, dehumidifier in garage, inspect for mildew monthly.

• Cold climates: Verify coolant mix; avoid salt splash on that first shakedown if roads are still white.

• Arid climates: Cover paint from dust abrasion; watch rubber drying—condition seals quarterly.

FAQ (fast answers)

Can I store on a trickle charger instead of a smart tender?
Use a smart maintainer; old trickle chargers can overcharge.

Should I fog the engine?
Only for long storage or specific classics; follow platform guidance.

Start monthly or not?
If you can’t drive 20–30 minutes to full temp, don’t start.

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